SHANGHAI/TAIYUAN, Feb. 15 (Xinhua) -- While dumplings remain the quintessential dish for countless families welcoming the Chinese New Year, noodles hold a special place as a beloved alternative in certain regional traditions.

In several cities across east China's Anhui Province, chicken soup noodles are traditionally enjoyed on the first morning of the Chinese New Year, as the word "chicken" sounds like the Chinese word for "luck," while noodles symbolize longevity. In Jingyuan County, northwest China's Gansu Province, noodles are not only a staple of the New Year's opening meal but are also eaten frequently in the days that follow.

The dazzling variety of Chinese foods is more than just a meal; it is a vibrant expression of tradition and culture, a view that resonates not only with the Chinese but also with French chef Corentin Delcroix, who calls China his second home.

"Noodles are definitely one of the best representations of Chinese cuisine, as they vary from north to south, east to west; in shape, crafting, texture and topping," he told Xinhua, speaking in fluent Mandarin.

A food vlogger and internet celebrity, Delcroix has spent the past three years showcasing nearly 10 varieties of noodles on social media. "Almost every region has its own signature noodle dish, one that tells the story of its local culture and heritage," he said. The culinary tradition, Delcroix believes, is well worth a deeper look.

HOMETOWN OF NOODLES

Archaeological research suggests that China is home to the world's oldest noodles, dating back some 4,000 years. Unearthed at the Lajia ruins in western Qinghai Province, often called the Oriental Pompeii, they stand as a testament to the enduring dietary traditions of the Chinese people.

Although China is widely regarded as the birthplace of rice, its vast territory, with its complex terrain and varied climate, has also given rise to a rich diversity of flour-based foods such as noodles.

Traditionally, noodles are served on many important occasions. People eat "longevity noodles" during birthday celebrations to wish for a long and healthy life, and noodles are offered to family members returning home as a warm gesture of welcome. Newlyweds are also often served noodles to bless them with lasting love and a harmonious marriage.

Noodles are so symbolic that they have even featured on the menus of China's state banquets, and are sought after by visiting foreign dignitaries. During former U.S. President Barack Obama's visit to China, he attended a banquet featuring a live demonstration of Dragon Beard Noodle (Longxu Mian) craftsmanship and engaged enthusiastically with the chef. In 2011, then U.S. Vice President Joe Biden ordered noodles with soybean paste at a restaurant in downtown Beijing, turning the so-called "Biden Set Meal" into a viral sensation.

Over the millennia, noodles have evolved into a rich variety of styles across China, with southwestern regions favoring spicy flavors and eastern areas leaning toward milder tastes, while in Yanji City of northeastern China, the Korean ethnic minority enjoys cold noodles and Lanzhou City in Gansu is famed for its steaming beef noodles.

Prior to China's reform and opening up, when grain coupons were required, a simple bowl of Yangchun noodles in clear soup without toppings was a treasured moment for many Shanghai residents, who saw the white noodles and green scallions as symbols of purity and refinement, reflecting personal cultivation.

Shanxi in northern China is often called the kingdom of noodles. Boiled noodles alone can take more than 200 forms, shaped by differences in production methods, ingredients and toppings. Dough is pulled, cut with scissors, sliced, hand-rolled, or pressed from flours such as wheat, oat, buckwheat, soybean, corn, or sorghum into a wide variety of shapes.

Liu Dangcheng, a senior master chef registered with the China Cuisine Association, attributes Shanxi's love of noodles to the scarcity of rice. Situated on the Loess Plateau with limited water resources, Shanxi produces wheat and boasts about one-tenth of the planting area of China's minor cereals like millet, miscellaneous beans and naked oats.

"In the 1950s and 1960s, when China faced grain shortages, people in Shanxi mixed starch from potatoes or sweet potatoes into corn flour to make noodles," he explained. "The noodles turned out unusually chewy and firm, earning them the nickname 'steel wire noodles.'"

MODERN SHIFT

After the reform and opening up in the late 1970s, China's rapid economic growth sped up the pace of life, turned the country into the "world's factory," and saw a proliferation of fast-food franchises. At the same time, China's noodle tradition took on a modern, consumer-oriented twist, catering to a growing appetite for global flavors among Chinese diners.

In the early 1990s, restaurants called "California beef noodles" sprang up across major Chinese cities, becoming a must-try for anyone caught up in the craze. It was only years later that people realized there was no such thing as California beef noodles, and that what had truly drawn them was not the noodles themselves, but their curiosity about the wider world.

Noodles from around the world have found their way into the Chinese market -- Japanese ramen, Italian spaghetti, Vietnamese pho -- each attracting diners eager to explore new flavors. Certain noodle chains expanded rapidly, with Ajisen Ramen, a popular Japanese ramen franchise, operating nearly 800 bustling stores across China at its peak.

In another development, instant noodles became increasingly popular and were even considered a luxury, prized for their variety of flavors and convenience. In the early years, instant noodles from Taiwan, such as Uni-President, opened up a new world of tastes and convenience for Chinese mainland residents and gained a significant share of the market. Office white-collar workers and millions of migrant workers across the country became loyal consumers.

Liu Dangcheng noted that, as a classic convenience food, instant noodles have long been valued mainly for their ease of preparation. Yet as society developed, a greater variety of convenient alternatives has emerged, and rising health awareness has relegated instant noodles back to the role of a meal substitute.

A growing focus on health has also transformed how people make noodles in Shanxi. "In the past, people ate noodles primarily to fill their stomachs, and restaurants competed on generous portions and low prices," said Gao Xiang, 42, a restaurant owner in Jinzhong City who specializes in healthy meals. He added that noodle-making has now been elevated into a visual performance designed to attract customers.

The evolution is also evident in the ingredients. Around 25 years ago, wheat flour noodles were the staple, but today noodles made from oat and bean flour are gaining popularity, especially among health-conscious urban professionals who prefer low-glycemic diets. Over the past winter, the most sought-after dish at Gao's restaurant has been mutton and Poria cocos buckwheat noodles.

In southern China, rising living standards are most visibly reflected in the diversity and quality of noodle toppings.

Shen Jialu, a renowned food connoisseur in Shanghai, documented this transformation in his book "Old Flavors of Shanghai." "Later, as life gradually improved, the basic Yangchun noodles were upgraded," he wrote, listing a diverse array of toppings including pork ribs, spicy sauce, pickled vegetables, shredded pork, braised pork, smoked fish, eel paste, shrimp, mutton, and curry beef. "When entertaining guests, simply opt for a double topping," he added.

On the other hand, local noodle sellers have evolved from humble mom-and-pop shops into a dazzling array of corporate contenders as China's market economy has fueled the rise of popular brands. Some have even gone public, including Xiao Noodles, a chain built on the fiery appeal of Chongqing's signature Xiaomian, oily, spicy noodles served with mashed yellow peas and minced pork sauce.

GOING INTERNATIONAL

In recent years, amid the growing global appeal of Chinese culture, noodles have garnered a rising international following.

In Shanghai, chefs from countries like Italy and Spain visited local restaurants, from iconic skyscrapers like the Shanghai Tower to hidden alleyway eateries, to learn about traditional Chinese noodle-making techniques. They then skillfully combined these methods with Western innovations, creating fusion dishes that resonate across cultures.

Meanwhile, traditional Chinese noodles are steadily making their way into major foreign markets.

Last year, a Chinese vendor in Belgium selling noodles with peas and meat sauce went viral on social media, generating substantial daily revenue. In Germany and Britain, Lanzhou beef noodle restaurants saw crowded lines of local residents eager to taste the authentic Chinese dish.

Guo Zhanglong, 38, had lived in France for over a decade before his mother-in-law visited. A native of Shanxi's Datong City, the home of knife-sliced noodles, she once impressed local workers by skillfully wielding a knife to cut noodles directly into a boiling pot. "Does every Chinese know Kung Fu?" they asked in astonishment.

In 2022, Guo and his family began selling sliced noodles at a humble outdoor market booth, a venture that quickly grew into a full-fledged restaurant. By October 2023, "Kongfu Pate" officially opened in downtown Paris, and within six months, a second outlet had launched near the Louvre Museum.

"Good food knows no borders," Guo said, adding that he blends authentic traditional flavors with dishes that charm French diners. During local festive occasions, patrons are often seen sitting, squatting, or standing as they savor the noodles.

For many, these noodles are more than just food: they serve as a gateway to Chinese culture. "This is particularly true amid the recent 'Becoming Chinese' trend, where people from different countries have embraced Chinese lifestyle practices," said Liu Dangcheng who has noticed an increase of international tourists in local noodle restaurants.

Guo was delighted to know that some customers were so inspired that they later traveled to China, exploring Shanxi and other regions for themselves.

"We are proud to contribute to the exchanges between people in France and China," he said. "With increased communication, there is bound to be more understanding among everyone."

(Reporting by Bai Xu, Rong Jiaojiao, Tian Ying, Lou Chen, Wang Jian, Wang Xutao and Xu Xiaoqing)